It’s Deepavali, or Diwali, the Festival of Lights. An Indian celebration and a time for rejoicing and renewal as Hindus celebrate the triumph of good over evil, and the uplifting of spiritual darkness. The Festival is also celebrated by Jains and Sikhs across the world, and also by Newar Buddhists in Nepal.
Traditionally, homes light up little lamps to usher in good fortune.



In many parts of India, Deepavali marks the homecoming of King Rama of Ayodhya in ancient India. King Rama is the hero of the ancient Sanskrit epic, the Rāmāyaṇa, one of the two great epics in Indian culture (the other being the Mahābhārata), which can also be found in many other cultures in South and Southeast Asia, such as Indonesia, Laos and Thailand. King Rama is often considered the reincarnation/avatar of the Hindu supreme god Vishnu, while his wife, Queen Sita, is that of the Hindu goddess of wealth and prosperity, Lakshmi, who in the pantheon of Hindu deities, is Vishnu’s consort.
The name Deepavali comes from the people of Ayodhya who welcomed their returning king by lighting rows (avali) of lamps (deepa). In Hindi, this became Diwali.
South India celebrates this festival as the day Lord Krishna, another reincarnation/avatar of Vishnu, defeated the demon Narakasura.
At home, Little India is all abuzz with shoppers and families preparing for their biggest holiday of the year. The area is decorated with lights and lamps and oil are on sale at every corner. Families cook up a feast and invite loved ones and friends over to join in the camaraderie.
One of the nicest, most memorable Deepavali festival I’ve ever seen was in Nepal, in Bhaktapur.
Bhaktapur is an ancient Newar town and there were lots of activity and traditional dances taking place in its main square, Durbar Square. Tiny lanes leading away from the centre of the old town into the labyrinth of alleys and passages were lit with hundreds of tiny oil lamps in earthen bowls. Magical. It was the Festival of Lights at its most beautiful I’ve ever seen.

My friends and I were there in October 2001, the year of the massacre of the Nepalese royal family in June, and then 9-11 in September. We were three girls wondering whether we ought to cancel the trip but we had already postponed it a few times, and it would be a big uncertainty when we would try going again.
So, when the boss of the trekking company, a friend of one of the girl’s dad, said the situation was fine, we went ahead.
(Sidetrack: October-November is a good time to visit Nepal and the region as it’s after the rainy season. The other trekking season is spring, but I heard there are more insects then. Trekking closes during winter. The weather would be autumn and cool, and the skies are said to be clearer and bluer during this time. But as luck would have it, it was cloudy during the few days we went trekking so we barely only glimpsed the Annapurna range. Hah!)
Anyhoo, because of all of what happened, although we were there during peak season, there was hardly any crowd. Timing our stay in Bhaktapur during Deepavali was nice because we soaked in the festivities in a town steeped in history. Bhaktapur is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
(The other Nepalese festival around this time of the year is Dasain, which is a harvest festival and involves animal sacrifices, buffaloes, goats, ducks, chickens… Blood, symbolic for its fertility, is offered to deities. The festival is meaningful for Hindus, but perhaps not so appealing to tourists. Furthermore, tourists are not allowed to enter the temples anyway…)
That was seven years ago. I’m not sure if Bhaktapur is still as pretty (I heard Pohkara is being developed fast, and that was a few years ago). But I’m sure Deepavali, Festival of Lights, would be, wherever in the world you happen to be. Peace.